Get together with a Bistrot Beaujolais chef : Le Mordant

Posted on 28 September 2020
Get together with a Bistrot Beaujolais chef : Le Mordant

The 10th arrondissement of Paris is where the Le Mordant (which translates loosely as ‘The Bite’) ‘bares its fangs’ and serves refined, attractive dishes. All the produce is meticulously selected at the producers. We’re here to provide a colourful, appealing cuisine with a spirit of sharing. At times traditional and at times exotic, the dishes get inspiration from countless places, taking diners far from their day-to-day routine as they eat.

a few words about you

Lucas Blanchy has been in the restaurant business for nearly 20 years. After spending time as a chef in restaurants like Georges V or Jules Vernes, Le Mordant is his first creation! Besides being an excellent chef, he is also an outstanding sommelier, fond of the terroir and fresh produce. With a leaning towards organic and biodynamics, he has developed a soft spot for natural wines. But for him, what’s important is “listening to the winegrower who is a purveyor of emotions, the wines are chosen to faithfully transpose what the grower has done with respect.”

a few words about the restaurant

“Before the restaurant was created here, there was a supermarket! So we had to rethink the decoration, now designed by the architect Lucie Lepage-Depreux. At Le Mordant, we strongly believe in recurring dishes, tow which the team’s ideas and cravings are added. The heart of the cuisine is to work with fresh, traceable produce. Traditional recipes are reinvented with a twist and daring seasonings, to bring the classics back into fashion. Like the standard ‘egg and mayo’ now infused with black tea and its wasabi mayonnaise.”

A signature dish

“The ‘avocado and beef tataki with a zest of lemon’. The chunks of tender beef are marinated in soy sauce, with kefir lemon and other secret ingredients. They are grilled then marinated again for 24 hours.”

A Beaujolais wine-and-food pairing

ribs-daddy-rogger-accord-met-vin-beaujolais

“Daddy Roger pork ribs – a recipe that’s a tribute to a friend’s American father. They pair perfectly with the Juliénas wine from the Domaine des Marrans. It’s an easy-to-drink wine that goes very well with the smoky taste in the barbecue sauce and the rather fatty piece of meat.”

One of your “favourite” winegrowers and why

“Jean-Claude Lapalu, who I’ve known since my training as a sommelier. I was taken with his ‘Eau Forte’ cuvée! He makes wines that provide lots of emotion and he’s amazing. He tells the story of the terroir and the Beaujolais through his wines.”

Why are you so attached to the Beaujolais region?

“I discovered the region when I was training to become a sommelier. I loved the Gamay grape variety and fell in love with the terroir and the diversity between the different appellations. They each have their unique typicities and every tasting has a nice surprise in store. I have my heart set on introducing others to the wines of this region. So it makes sense to be listed as a Bistrot Beaujolais and it lets me fly the Beaujolais flag high.”

An anecdote (or two) from behind the scenes

“Our customers are fairly traditional in their approach to wines so I like guiding them towards appellations that aren’t quite as well known, getting them to do blind tastings to overcome their biases, and introducing them to the real Beaujolais.

One day I recommended a Beaujolais to a customer; but he wouldn’t have any of it. As a risk-taker I decided to bring him and his guests wine by the glass. The whole table agreed: they loved it! Then I told them what I had served them… a Beaujolais! They were surprised but keep coming back for more now.

I also love keeping Jean-Claude Lapalu’s Beaujolais Nouveau on hand, and serving it year round to my customers, to surprise them.”

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