Have you ever heard of the “Pierres Dorées”? Both a geographical area recognisable by the bright colours of the stones in its villages and a sector of the AOC Beaujolais, the Pierres Dorées are a veritable French gem! As proud of their heritage as they are of their terroirs, Pierres Dorées winemakers are striving to gain recognition for their wines. Their wish is to properly promote this facet of the Beaujolais region, which delights all those who have already discovered it. Focus on this very special area and on the “Beaujolais Pierres Dorées” collective’s approach.
PIERRES DOREES: AN IDEAL TERROIR FOR WINEGROWING
Where are the Pierres Dorées?
In the south of the Beaujolais region, some 40 kilometres north of Lyon, lies a unique area called “Pierres Dorées”. The villages that make up the area, such as Pommiers, Theizé, Lachassagne, Val d’Oingt, Jarnioux, all have one thing in common: the undeniable beauty of their houses and bell towers built with golden stones which give the area its name – “pierres dorées” means “golden stones”. [cd1] This area of the Beaujolais region is a charming place, with its vine-covered hills, unique light and hilltop villages. Over the centuries, the Pierres Dorées area has alternated between polyculture and viticulture, which helps explain the various landscapes found there today. Imagine for a moment a painting depicting vineyards and golden buildings scattered here and there, wheatfields and meadows with grazing cows and sheep. A slice of heaven!
Cultivated since the Gallo-Roman era, vines are everywhere and are an integral part of the Pierres Dorées’ heritage. Today, more than 500 hectares of vines are cultivated under the “Beaujolais Pierres Dorées” designation. This area covers 43 communes in the Beaujolais appellation.
A complex geological history
While it may only stretch some 50 kilometres from south to north, the Beaujolais region is unique in that it is extremely rich in terms of geology. It is often described as a “mosaic”, in reference to the many different soils that can be found there. In fact, there are no less than 300 different types of soil in the Beaujolais region. In 2018, UNESCO recognised this distinctive feature by awarding the region the label “UNESCO Global Geopark”.
The richness of the Beaujolais soils is particularly obvious in the Pierres Dorées. Tectonic movements as well as the effects of volcanoes and oceans have all helped shape the area. It’s this history that makes the geology of the Pierres Dorées area one of the richest and most complex in France.
“Studies show that all the soil profiles of the Beaujolais region can be found in the Pierres Dorées.”
Sylvain Flache, President of the cooperative winery Vignerons des Pierres Dorées
The geographical area of the Pierres Dorées contains limestone, iron oxides, clays and volcanic rocks. The oldest rocks in the Beaujolais region – granite and gneiss – can also be found there. To the east, a large part of the Pierres Dorées is composed of sedimentary rocks from the Mesozoic Era. In this area, limestone is interbedded with marl and sandstone. Throughout history, this overwhelming presence of limestone and marl helped establish a thriving stone-cutting industry in the Pierres Dorées. So, it is to this large part of the Pierres Dorées soil that we owe the name of this southern terroir of the Beaujolais appellation.
BEAUJOLAIS PIERRES DORÉES, WHAT IS YOUR FLAVOUR PROFILE?
Although we tend to associate “golden” with white, the Pierres Dorées area does not only produce white wines. And while its white wines do have a good reputation, it produces far more red wines. In 2023, winemakers claimed to have produced 19,638 hL of red wines (Gamay) and 3,739 hL of white wines (Chardonnay).
Complex and concentrated red wines
Beaujolais Pierres Dorées reds are part of the Beaujolais appellation. Gamay is the historic grape varietal of this area, where winemakers have always produced more red wines than white wines. They are fruity, well-structured and reveal aromas of black fruits as well as spicy notes. They are ruby-red in colour, smooth and round on the palate with a lingering finish.
The ageing process of Beaujolais Pierres Dorées is longer than for other Beaujolais wines, and takes place in vats or casks. They are long-keeping wines that can be drunk within 3 to 5 years of production, or more depending on the vintage. For example, winemaker Cyril Sapin (Domaine Sapin) says that bottles from 2020 or 2022 (solar years) can be left until 2028 or 2030!
Outstanding white wines
Beaujolais winemakers are particularly proud of their Beaujolais whites, which are well received. Some of the hills in the Pierres Dorées area are ideal for white wines. The Pierres Dorées area is rich in the clayey limestone soils that are particularly well-suited to growing Chardonnay and producing great terroir wines. Moreover, they gain in complexity from year to year as the Chardonnay vines age, having been planted more recently than the Gamay vines.
“We planted some Chardonnay vines on a family plot in Liergues, located on a wonderful limestone seam over 200 million years old. The result in the glass is breathtaking! The white wine it creates is fresh, mineral and has great tension.”
Marine Descombe, winemaker at Château de Pougelon (Saint-Etienne-des-Oullières)
Beaujolais Pierres Dorées whites are round, well-balanced and complex. They are golden in colour, just like the terroir they come from. They often reveal aromas of white fruits and flowers. Their time spent in casks can lend some of them slightly buttery and woody flavours. They are fresh and round on the palate with a lingering finish.
The ageing process of white wines, which is often long, gives them great ageing potential. Thanks to this ageing process, Beaujolais Pierres Dorées whites can be drunk between 1 and 6 years of production.
–> More information on Beaujolais whites
A FUTURE DÉNOMINATION GÉOGRAPHIQUE COMPLÉMENTAIRE FOR PIERRES DORÉES WINES?
A collective promotes the uniqueness of Pierres Dorées wines
For several decades now, the “Pierres Dorées” indication has been popping up on the labels of bottles in the south of the Beaujolais region. In 2023, it could be found on more than 200 bottles, almost twice as many as in 2016. This indication enables consumers to pinpoint where the wines come from and winegrowers to differentiate their terroir-based cuvées. Although these wines claim to be “Pierres Dorées”, they are neither officially recognised nor geographically protected. In fact, nothing currently guarantees their origin or method of production.
“I’ve been putting ‘Pierres Dorées’ on the labels of my bottles since 2018. This name speaks to me, it echoes our heritage, the architecture of our houses…”
Cyril Sapin, winemaker at Domaine Sapin (Val d’Oingt)
For some 15 years, a collective of winemakers has been striving to obtain a “Dénomination Géographique Complémentaire” (DGC – Complementary Geographic Denomination) for Pierres Dorées wines. Their goal? To gain recognition for the unique identity of their wines produced within the Beaujolais appellation. This collective, called “Beaujolais Pierres Dorées”, aspires to bridge the gap between the people, vines and heritage of the area. It brings together both independent winemakers and wineries, as well as larger estates and wine cooperatives.
What is a Dénomination Géographique Complémentaire?
In the wine industry, it is possible to display specific indications such as a geographical denomination in addition to the appellation – for example adding “Pierres Dorées” to the Beaujolais appellation. This can both help consumers to more precisely identify where the wine is produced and promote the uniqueness of the product. After assessing the file and conducting a field survey, the INAO can decide whether or not to grant a Dénomination Géographique Complémentaire (DGC). This helps “to identify wines whose identity is linked to a territory smaller than that of the AOC”.
More information
Create a shared identity
Obtaining a DGC is a long process. It involves submitting a file attesting to the long-standing existence of the name, the involvement of the winemakers and the exceptional nature of the wines. In order to formalise their DGC request, the members of the “Beaujolais Pierres Dorées” collective split into working groups. Three commissions were set up: specifications, tasting and communication. WhatsApp groups, meetings, tastings… thanks to this organisation, the winemakers were able to formalise a shared vision. In 2017, they submitted their request to the INAO, who is currently in the assessment and discussion phase. Today, the collective shares a visual identity, as well as a set of specifications specific to Pierres Dorées wines.
The logo of the Beaujolais Pierres Dorées collective illustrates the diversity of the plots and the colours of the wines, both red and white. The colour palette reflects the distinctive hues of the houses in the Pierres Dorées area. And in pride of place, a glass of wine. This logo consolidates the collective’s unique approach and identity.
“The ‘Beaujolais Pierres Dorées’ collective brings together people from all backgrounds, driven by the same desire to move forward together and to focus on quality.”
Sylvain Flache, President of the wine cooperative Vignerons des Pierres Dorées
What does a Dénomination Géographique Complémentaire in the Pierres Dorées involve?
The file submitted to the INAO outlines a number of distinctive points for wines that could be granted a Beaujolais Pierres Dorées DGC:
- A limited geographical area: the “Beaujolais Pierres Dorées” Dénomination Géographique Complémentaire will cover only part of the Pierres Dorées area.
- Two colours: Beaujolais Pierres Dorées can only be red wines (Gamay) or white wines (Chardonnay).
- A longer ageing process: Beaujolais Pierres Dorées have great ageing potential but can also be consumed the year after maturation. Their specifications suggest a long ageing period lasting until 30 March of the year following the harvest. This is 3 months longer than other wines of the Beaujolais appellation.
- An environmental commitment: in terms of cultivation, the “Pierres Dorées” DGC requires an environmental certification (Organic Agriculture or certifications equivalent to HVE 2).
How far has the “Beaujolais Pierres Dorées” collective got?
The “Beaujolais Pierres Dorées” file was submitted in 2017 and, after several rounds of correspondence, is now under review. An INAO commission of enquiry is currently underway and will decide whether or not to approve the DGC request. However, the collective has not waited for the DGC to be granted before making itself more widely known. To this end, it has created communication tools (i.e., a logo and a website) and attended more events, such as Sirha for example, to raise its profile.
The popularity of Pierres Dorées wines is growing, particularly among wine professionals. A competition called “Excellence Pierres Dorées” has taken place every year in the Beaujolais region since 1998. Restaurant owners, wine merchants, oenologists, sommeliers as well as the winemakers themselves take part in a tasting of a selection of Beaujolais Pierres Dorées wines. The winners may receive a diploma and an “Excellence Pierres Dorées” badge, but above all, this event aims to bring people together. It puts the spotlight on these wines while also giving an account of their development. In 2024, the panellists declared that they were “happy to see that the appellation is improving in quality each year”. (Le Progrès).
As you can see, the Pierres Dorées are hoping to gain recognition for their age-old vines, iconic buildings and wines that are firmly rooted in their terroirs. This desire to set in stone an identity that is unique to the Pierres Dorées area has driven its winemakers for several years. While the DGC application may take several more years, its outcome remains unknown. But one thing’s for sure: the collective momentum has already helped this facet of the Beaujolais region to shine!
