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Futures Beaujolais Premiers Crus ?

Premier cru: a move upmarket supported by the winegrowers.

Pissevieille, Côte du Py, La Madone, Champ de Cour… Have you ever noticed these names on bottles of Beaujolais crus? Whether you are familiar or not with the notion of ‘vins de lieux’, or ‘site-specific wines’, we are going to explain what it means, at a time where several crus are hoping to see the emergence of Beaujolais Premiers Crus.

Are some Beaujolais wines on their way to gaining recognition as Premiers Crus? This is in any case the path some of the vineyards’ ten crus have taken. Lieux-dits – literally “said-names” – are geographical areas recognised in the land register and have been recorded on maps for more than two centuries. Now, winegrowers are seeking recognition for these special terroirs. Will they go as far as to be classified as Premiers Crus? Let’s take a look at this lengthy undertaking, the progress of which varies from one cru to another.

Beaujolais : a vineyard made of crus and lieux-dits

Does “lieu-dit” and “premier cru” mean anything to you ?

Firstly, what are lieux-dits and what does Premier Cru mean? When it comes to wine, lieux-dits are specific registered terroirs within the appellation. There are almost 600 in the Beaujolais cru area alone and each one produces its own distinctive cuvées. An increasing number of winegrowers mention them on their labels. A Premier Cru is a step above crus in the hierarchy of wines and is recognised as an exceptional terroir with regulated practices. 

A mosaic of soils in the beaujolais region

While the variety of soils found across the Beaujolais vineyard has not escaped the notice of winegrowers past and present, a veritable mosaic of soils was brought to light in 2018. An unprecedented study – which took 9 years to complete – revealed more than 300 types of soil from the 15 main types of rock. So it’s hardly surprising that Beaujolais wines are so different, not just from one AOC to another, but also from one lieu-dit to another.

Age-old lieux-dits

The lieux-dits found in the 12 appellations are part of the Beaujolais region’s winegrowing history. ‘Carriers of history’ still tell stories about these places named after a historical event, a family or even a natural feature of the landscape. Some lieux-dits are even mentioned on old maps, labels or harvest declarations… The 1869 Budker map for example identified no fewer than 200 lieux-dits! In other words, the plot-by-plot approach used in the Beaujolais region is nothing new.

Carte Budker -1869
Lieux-dits of the “Beaujolais hillside” identified on the 1869 Budker map, Bibliothèque Nationale de France

Why does the Beaujolais vineyard want its own premiers crus ?

The plot-by-plot approach, an integral part of the Beaujolais region’s identity

Whether they are introducing their ‘lieux-dits cuvées’ or naming their bottles after them, an increasing number of Beaujolais winegrowers, like their ancestors, are using a plot-by-plot approach. Aware of the variability of the soils they work on and determined to offer unique ranges of wines, they create cuvées and even micro-cuvées to reveal the potential of each lieu-dit. Some people call these wines ‘vins de lieux’.

Premier cru : a move upmarket driven by winegrowers

It is the winegrowers of each appellation themselves who are behind this project to recognise some wines as Premiers Crus. Their motivation? The desire to see the remarkable lieux-dits of the Beaujolais region fully appreciated and their specific characteristics fully acknowledged. As the presence of Premiers Crus is a guarantee of quality for the entire vineyard, it is the Beaujolais region as a whole that will gain recognition for its move upmarket.

A bird’s-eye view of Beaujolais plots.
A bird’s-eye view of Beaujolais plots © Beaujolais Wines / Etienne Ramousse

Is Beaujolais on a path towards premier cru recognition ?

How do you choose the lieux-dits that could be put forward for premier-cru recognition ?

Winegrowers selected the lieux-dits that are likely to become Premiers Crus using a method approved by the National Institute of Origin and Quality (INAO). To justify these potential upgrades, the institute requires the following criteria to be taken into account:

  • claims : do the winegrowers already mention the lieu-dit on their bottles and do they make it known during harvest time?
  • past reputation : are there references to the lieu-dit in the archives (maps, books…)?
  • current reputation: are they mentioned in guides, magazines competitions?
  • tastings: does the lieu-dit have specific characteristics compared to the generic appellation? Which ones?
  • value: does mentioning the lieu-dit add value to the bottle? Does it highlight the particular attention the winegrower paid to the cuvée? In other words, is a “lieu-dit” cuvée economically valued?

These criteria are used to rank the lieux-dits and ultimately select those with the highest scores and put them forward for the recognition.

Premier cru means regulated practices

So, what does recognition as a Premier Cru mean? Moving upmarket involves adopting more restrictive practices than those used for the rest of the appellation. Some examples? Among other things, Premiers Crus require lower yields during harvest time and longer ageing periods for the wines.

In order to standardise procedures, a set of basic Premier Cru specifications have been established. They are based on the practices described by winegrowers from each appellation. The crus put forward for a potential upgrade are welcome to go further.

Les 12 appellations du Beaujolais. ©Vins du Beaujolais
The 12 Beaujolais appellations.

Fleurie, Brouilly and Moulin-à-Vent, premier cru applicants 

How are the ten crus doing ?

The ten crus have always showcased their terroirs, but it is only since 2019 that they have embarked on this joint mission to gain recognition for their lieux-dits, in order to more precisely define each terroir.

This undertaking may eventually lead to some of them gaining recognition as Premiers Crus. This will soon be the case for Fleurie, Brouilly, Moulin-à-Vent, Côte de Brouilly and Juliénas. For the remaining five, data collection continues.

The lieux-dits put forward for premier cru recognition

It was the Fleurie winegrowers who first applied for Premier Cru recognition. They were followed a few months later by those from Brouilly and Moulin-à-Vent. They adopted the INAO procedure in order to draw up a list of lieux-dits to be showcased. The applicants for the Premier Cru title selected at the General Assembly are: 

  • 7 lieux-dits in the Fleurie cru: Grille Midi, La Chapelle des Bois, La Madone, La Roilette, Les Garants, Les Moriers, Poncié
  • 16 in the Brouilly cru: Briante, Combiaty, Combiliaty, Garanches, La Chaize, La Martingale, La Perrière, La Terrière, Les Maisons neuves, Marquisat, Pierreux, Pissevieille, Reverdon, Saburin, Saint Pierre, Voujon
  • 14 in the Moulin-à-Vent cru: Au Michelon, Aux Caves, Carquelin, Champ de Cour, Chassignol, La Roche, La Rochelle, La Tour du Bief, Moulin-à-Vent, Les Perrelles, Les Rouchaux, Les Thorins, Les Verillats and Rochegrès.

And now ?

While the bulk of the work has already been done by the winegrowers, the Fleurie, Brouilly and Moulin-à-Vent crus are only at the beginning of the process. The application submitted by Fleurie is being assessed by the INAO, while those of Brouilly and Moulin-à-Vent are being finalised.

The body in charge of the original appellations begins its assessment once the applications have officially been submitted. This can take more than ten years and the INAO can make many adjustments. So, we have to be patient, it may take some time before we see the first Beaujolais Premiers Crus!

Le Clos, lieu-dit in the Chénas cru
Le Clos, lieu-dit in the Chénas cru, © Beaujolais Wines / Jonas Jacquel

The steps towards recognition as a premier cru

  • 2009 – 2018: unprecedented study to characterise the Beaujolais terroirs carried out by the Sigales pedological study agency
  • 2017: launch of a joint project by the 10 crus to move upmarket
  • April 2019: creation of a work method to determine the lieux-dits to be put forward for Premier Cru recognition
  • 2019 – 2024: survey of practices, creation of files for the lieux-dits, monthly tastings organised by each cru
  • 28 March 2023: vote during the Fleurie cru General Assembly for the 7 lieux-dits to be put forward
  • 16 October 2023: vote during the Brouilly cru General Assembly for the 16 lieux-dits to be put forward
  • 22 November 2023: Fleurie officially submitted its application to the INAO
  • 19 December 2023: vote during the Moulin-à-Vent cru General Assembly for the 14 lieux-dits to be put forward
  • In 2024: official submissions for the Brouilly and Moulin-à-Vent crus
  • By 2035: official recognition of the lieux-dits classified as “Premiers Crus”

Now the lieux-dits of the Beaujolais region and their potential to become Premiers Crus hold no secrets from you.

With this project to move upmarket, the ten crus both acknowledge that there is a treasure trove under the Beaujolais vineyard and share a common goal: to more precisely define each terroir.

This reappropriation by winegrowers of their lieux-dits is already changing the face of the Beaujolais vineyard.

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Ways to remember the 10 Beaujolais crus

© Fabrice Ferrer

The Beaujolais vineyard boast 12 appellations, including 10 crus. Do you know them all ? Ten crus and a lot of names to retain. Here are a few devices to help you remember !

1. A mnemonic device to remember the 10 BEAUJOLAIS crus

The idea is to learn a sentence that begins with the first letter of each cru. Many sentences are used in the Beaujolais region. So, for those of you who speak French, here is one example:

  • « Alors Je Cherche Mon Frère Chez Ma Respectable Cousine Berthe ».

(Translation: So, I’m looking for my brother at my respectable cousin Berthe’s house)

If we expand each capital letter, we get: A for Saint-Amour, J for Juliénas, C for Chénas, M for Moulin-à-Vent, F for Fleurie, C for Chiroubles, M for Morgon,R for Régnié, C for Côte-de-Brouilly and finally B for Brouilly.

  • Among English-speaking wine enthusiasts, you might hear :
    “Some Japanese Canadians Marry French Canadians Making Really Beautiful Children”

This sentence uses the S of Saint-Amour. Then come Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Régnié, Brouilly and Côte de Brouilly.

If neither of these sentences feel right, why not come up with your own? All Jays Caw, etc. or Friday Morning Rituals, etc. But we can assure you, it’s not easy!

View on the Beaujolais crus. © Etienne Ramousse
View on the Beaujolais crus. © Etienne Ramousse

2. A real-life experience in the Beaujolais region

The best way to remember the ten crus is to associate them with a memorable experience. It is easier to remember a wine if it reminds you of an encounter or a moment shared with others. So here are three ways to make the most of your trip in the Beaujolais region!

On the 3rd Thursday of November, many wineries organise tastings of Beaujolais Nouveaux, as well as other Beaujolais appellations. You could try a Juliénas, a Saint-Amour or a Fleurie!

The Beaujolais Wine Route is a tourist trail that crosses the entire Beaujolais vineyard. You can visit the village of Chiroubles, glimpse the moulin à vent, or windmill, that the appellation is named after, climb Mont Brouilly or stop off at Villié-Morgon.

The Sarmentelles festival is THE place to be to celebrate the arrival of Beaujolais Nouveaux. Beaujeu, the historic capital of the Beaujolais region, is also a great place to discover all the appellations. Each cru takes part in the Sarmentelles, so don’t hesitate to talk to winegrowers from Chénas, Chiroubles or Régnié.

To complete the list of Beaujolais appellations, don’t forgot the AOC Beaujolais and AOC Beaujolais Villages!

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A Moulin-à-Vent cuvée awarded World’s Best Gamay 2024

Last Saturday, January 13th, the 14th International Gamay Competition was held at the Cité Internationale in Lyon. 811 cuvées from 4 different countries – France, Switzerland, Italy, Brazil – competed for the much-desired title. And after Brouilly in 2022, and Côte de Brouilly last year, a Moulin-à-Vent cuvée won the trophy.

Learn more about the 12 Beaujolais AOCs.

A record number of tasters

This event is not to be missed for some wine professionals and educated amateurs. 181 of them attended the event to taste the numerous cuvées registered for this competition. Gold and silver medals were attributed after a first tasting.

At the end of the first selection, a special jury of experts – a sommellerie teacher, an oenologist, a restaurateur, a wine merchant and a sommelier – blind tasted again the gold medal cuvées in order to find the best. It’s finally Moulin-à-Vent Old Vines 2023 from Domaine de Colonat which was elected World’s Best Gamay 2024.

267 gamay cuvées awarded by a medal

267 medals, among which 164 in gold and 103 in silver, were granted to the best Gamay cuvées of this competition. The jury also awarded a special mention to the best wine from Switzerland: Coteau de Peissy AOC, Le Baron Rouge Old Vines 1er cru 2022 from Domaine des Charmes, 100% Gamay.

Find the complete award list on the competition official website.

International Gamay Competition – © VBerlanda
Moulin-à-Vent Old Vines 2023 – Domaine de Colonat
Julie and Thomas Collonge

Moulin-à-Vent awarded World’s Best Gamay

The “World’s Best Gamay 2024” trophy has been awarded to Moulin-à-Vent Old Vines 2023 from Domaine de Colonat.

Winegrowers for 9 generations, the Collonge family cultivates 3 hectares of vines and produces cuvées of Morgon, Moulin-à-Vent, Chiroubles, Brouilly, Régnié and white Beaujolais AOCs. After studying viticulture and oenology, Thomas trained in France and abroad before joining the family wine estate for 10 years of passing on knowledge from its parents. Since 2018, Julie and Thomas have been continuying to develop the wine estate. The knowledge of their best terroirs allows them to offer 5 cuvées from specific plots from Moulin-à-Vent and Morgon AOCs.

“Nous avons identifié au Domaine de Colonat trois éléments qui nous semblent essentiels pour produire des grands vins : nos vieilles vignes, le choix de la date de récolte et le tri des raisins à la récolte.” confie Thomas Collonge.

The grapes of this cuvée come from 3 different plots of Moulin-à-Vent AOC: les Greneriers, Bois Pontdevaux and Maison Neuve. The clay-granitic terroirs offer limited but regular water availability to the 61 to 93 year-old vines. The wine ages in concrete vats in order to preserve fruit and freshness.

Moulin-à-Vent AOC celebrates its centenary in 2024: get more news here.

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Exceptional Beaujolais wines: the selection for the ASI Best Sommelier of the World contest 2023

Concours Meilleur Sommelier 2023 Sélection des vins du Beaujolais

As partner of the Best Sommelier of the World contest, the Beaujolais vineyard will have the chance to present its exceptional cuvées. In Paris in February 2023, all international sommeliers will be able to taste these cuvées selected by a prestigious jury.

But how are these wines chosen? Let’s watch the video of this demanding tasting.

A jury of excellence to select 41 exceptional Beaujolais wines.

On the occasion of the partnership between Beaujolais wines and the Best Sommelier of the World contest 2023, three great French sommeliers were able to assess the finest cuvées of the vineyard. Among these exceptional wines, 41 will be presented to the best sommeliers on the planet during the competition week.

To find out more about the ASI Best Sommelier of the World contest 2023, read the dedicated blog article.

In order to make this qualitative selection, three renowned sommeliers took part in the tasting exercise. Philippe Faure-Brac, Best Sommelier of the World 1992 and president of the Union of French Sommellery, Laurent Derhé, Best Artisan Sommelier of France 2007 and Gaëtan Bouvier, Best French Sommelier 2016 and Best Artisan Sommelier of France 2022.

“Today, the aim was to select typical wines from our wonderful Beaujolais vineyard, among gamays and chardonnays, in order to present them to the best sommeliers of the world and […] prove that this vineyard is a great vineyard.”

Laurent Derhé, Best Artisan Sommelier of France 2007

Video : the sommeliers express themselves on the selection of Beaujolais wines

This tasting took place in October 2022 at the Paul Bocuse Institute, in Ecully, Rhône, France. The Paul Bocuse Institute also hosts the restaurant Saisons* awarded by 1 Michelin star. The jurors first selected 40 bottles that will have the honor of being tasted by the elite of world sommelier. Then, they confessed their impressions in front of our cameras.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=txl_0m-2r50

The sommeliers Philippe Faure-Brac, Laurent Derhé and Gaëtan Bouvier. They speak about their Beaujolais tastings for the Best Sommelier of the World contest 2023.

It was therefore a wonderful day of tasting and sommellerie held around Beaujolais wines. Another proof that those exceptional wines have their place on gastronomic tables around the world.

Beaujolais Wines, partner of the ASI Competition for the Best Sommelier of the World Paris 2023. Click here to learn more !

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2020 vintage in Beaujolais : the vintage of the decade

Carnet millésime 2020

The Beaujolais region has had many outstanding vintages in recent years, and 2020 was no exception. The success of this vintage is attributed to the exceptional conditions that have been offered to winemakers, allowing them to produce their signature wines.

Let’s dive into the factors that contributed to making 2020 the vintage of the decade for Beaujolais.

2020 : excellent weather conditions

The distinctive results of 2020 can be attributed to a range of factors, including the exceptional weather conditions that prevailed throughout the seasons. The year was characterized by dry and hot weather early on, which ensured optimal grape ripening and excellent vine health. Although there were occasional rains and temperature drops, these were timely and prevented overripe berries as well as significant yield reductions. Many Beaujolais producers agree that these very favorable conditions have produced great wines,

Gamay grape in summer
Gamay grape in summer – Beaujolais Wines / Etienne Ramousse

“Power, balance, freshness, fruitiness, roundness, and complexity… everything is there!”

Philippe Viet, winemaker in Régnié-Durette

2020 : ripeness, freshness and balance

Ripeness, freshness, and balance are the hallmarks of the 2020 vintage.

The warm temperatures allowed for beautiful ripening of the grapes and stems, providing winemakers with the opportunity to choose their preferred style, whether it be power or elegance.

Production methods were rethought which resulted in the discovery of wines with unique styles, offering new possibilities for gastronomic pairings. Cover crops, mulching, long macerations, low-temperature vinification, or extended aging were some of the techniques employed by winemakers to achieve their desired styles.

Although the alcohol concentration in this vintage is significant, it is beautifully balanced by the wines’ refreshing acidity. This harmony of sugars and acids results in a genuine balance that characterizes the wines of 2020.

2020 vintage : an expression of the Terroir

2020 wines express the terroir in a variety of profiles, depending on the specificities of their land. To learn more about the richness of Beaujolais soils, refer to the page The Beaujolais Vineyard, a Mosaic of Soils.

They gained power in some cases, taking on notes of black fruits, spices, and aromatic herbs from the south. In other cases, they are more delicate, revealing fresher, more lively aromas, and delicate tannins.

The aromatic profiles of the wines vary from one appellation to another, sometimes even from one plot to another, due to the extremely rich geology of the vineyard.

Rocks in Beaujolais
Rocks in Beaujolais – Floriane Tanneur / Beaujolais Wines

With their distinct characteristics and nuances, the 2020 wines exhibit a remarkable aging potential, ensuring they will endure the test of time.

The 2020 vintage is so particular that it got a dedicated booklet. Should you be curious to learn more, please refer to the detailed 2020 vintage report linked below.

in french
in english

Feel free to order the paper version of the 2020 vintage report on our online store.

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Best Sommelier of the World: contest in Paris in 2023

In February 2023, France will host the prestigious Best Sommelier of the World contest in Paris. Seventy candidates from around the world will compete in the major wine event! As an official partner of the ASI Best Sommelier of the World contest Paris 2023, Beaujolais Wines are proud to introduce you to this legendary contest!

A longstanding contest for sommeliers from the world over

Every three years since 1969, the ASI (Association de Sommellerie Internationale) has been in charge of organising the contest. For that matter, this worldwide contest is the most prestigious in the realm of sommellerie. So it is no coincidence that the World’s Best Sommelier title is coveted by all highly-regarded sommeliers!

Back in 1989, France hosted the contest for the first and only time. Now, thirty-four years later, the UDSF (Union de la Sommellerie Française) has the privilege of hosting the event in France again. That’s why, in 2023, the organisers intend to give it their all to make the major contest truly unforgettable.

Winners since the initial contest

  • 1969: Armand Melkonian (French)
  • 1971: Piero Sattanino (Italian)
  • 1978: Guiseppe Vaccarini (Italian)
  • 1983: Jean-Luc Pouteau (French)
  • 1986: Jean-Claude Jambon (French)
  • 1989: Serge Dubs (French)
  • 1992: Philippe Faure-Brac (French)
  • 1995: Shinya Tasaki (Japanese)
  • 1998: Markus Del Monego (German)
  • 2000: Olivier Poussier (French)
  • 2004: Enrico Bernardo (Italian)
  • 2007: Andreas Larsson (Swedish)
  • 2010: Gérard Basset (French on behalf of Great Britain)
  • 2013: Paolo Basso (Swiss)
  • 2016: Jon Arvid Rosengren (Swedish)
  • 2019: Marc Almert (German)
Insigne des sommeliers français (UDSF)
Insigne des sommeliers français (UDSF)

And this year, Pascaline Lepeltier, with Benjamin Roffet as her substitute, has qualified to represent France. As the Best Sommelier of France 2018, she currently works as a sommelier at Chambers restaurant in Manhattan (New York). At the same time, she not only visits the vineyards as often as possible, but is also an author: her first work, Mille Vignes (A Thousand Vines), was published in 2022.

The Best Sommelier of the World contest: how it works

The contest will take place at the Hotel Pullman Montparnasse in Paris from 7 to 12 February 2023. However, the grand finale will be held at the Défense Arena. It is expected to be quite a show for the 3500 people in attendance.

The week-long contestschedule is made up of three competitions, including theoretical questionnaires and blind tasting tests. The quarter-final, on Wednesday and Thursday, 8-9 February, then the semi-final on Friday, 10 February and lastly, the final on Sunday, 12 February. Attending the final is open to wine professionals as well as connoisseurs and the simply curious.

Between the competitions, sommeliers and journalists will take part in several master classes on topics organised by partner vineyards. The Beaujolais vineyards will present, among other topics, its multiple terroirs and the impact of the latter on wine profiles.

Logo Concours ASI Meilleur Sommelier du Monde

This is an opportunity to “showcase France, make Paris shine and promote our restaurant industry, sommellerie, vineyards and winegrowers.”

Philippe Faure-Brac, Best Sommelier of the World 1992

“The event will have a triple impact”, as UDSF President Philippe Faure-Brac explained: “showcase France, make Paris shine and promote our restaurant industry, sommellerie, vineyards and winegrowers, in real life, of course, but also online.”

What a great aim for the 2023 French event, which will undoubtedly leave a lasting impression on the international history of wine!

Beaujolais Wines, an official partner of the ASI Best Sommelier of the World Paris 2023 contest: click here to find out more!

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Chateau life in the Beaujolais region

Do you sometimes find it difficult to choose a wine? If you don’t have a friendly local wine merchant or winemaker to hand, the best solution is to look for the château on the label! The wine inside is sure to be fit for a king!

When it comes to Beaujolais wines, trust in conventional wisdom. There are more than 300 chateaus and country homes in the Beaujolais winegrowing area, many of which have vineyards.

Prestigious wines

© Jean-Luc Mege Photographie

What if we took you to Versailles to convince you? Versailles in Beaujolais, otherwise known as Château de la Chaize, in Odenas is a wonderful example of 17th century architecture. The estate covering nearly 330 hectares is landscaped with French formal gardens designed by the King’s famous gardener André Le Nôtre . Château de la Chaize has 140 hectares of vines, and is hence both an architectural and winegrowing wealth with the production of lovely Brouilly, Côte de Brouilly and Fleurie vintages. The wines are matured in the longest vat room in the Beaujolais region: a 108-metre-long building classified as a historical monument.

Other impressively sized cellars can be found in the chateau de Juliénas, former stronghold of the Lords of Beaujeu. They are in the basement under the courtyard and cover a surface area of over 200 metres, the equivalent of two football pitches! Juliénas has been produced there for five generations.

In Villié-Morgon, Château de Bellevue overlooks the village. The 19th century mansion was once inhabited by one of the Lumière Brothers’ children as well as by Princess Lieven, née Chateaubriand. With a vineyard that stretches out over 15 hectares in the Morgon appellation, the wine estate is considered one of the gems of the Beaujolais region.

Château des Bachelards, Château Thivin, Château des Moriers, Château Saint-Vincent or Château de Fleurie and Domaine de Briante, to name but a few, are also part of the long list of the winegrowing region’s heritage treasures. There’s no doubt about it, the area is full of Châteaux and to discover them all, you just need to come for a visit!

When the wine tells a story

If you want to follow the trail of the Lords of Beaujeu, visit the château de Montmelas in Montmelas-Saint-Sorlin, a former garrison that belonged to the Lords of Beaujeu in the Middle Ages. The château looks down on the surrounding area from the top of its hill.

In the 19th century, the architect Viollet-le-Duc gave it a new look by adding crenelated towers. Ever since it has been nicknamed “Sleeping Beauty’s castle”.

The chateau’s vines produce Beaujolais Villages wines; the profile of the Marquis of Montmelas whose family has owned the château for five centuries appears on the label.

Enigmatic wines

History and story lovers may want to investigate the chateau de Vaurenard in Gleizé, and more particularly a bottle of Baron de Richemont, a Beaujolais appellation. The Baron claimed to be Louis XVII, son of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette. The building dates from the 17th and 18th centuries

Stunning chateaus of golden stones

Enjoy the sun’s rays at the château de Rochebonne in Theizé. Its 17th century façade of golden stones is to be enjoyed with a glass of Beaujolais Villages.

Another place to soak up the rays is Jarnioux: the chateau is a marvel in golden stones that will delight Renaissance enthusiasts. Some of the building dates from the 12th century, which makes Jarnioux château one of the best preserved in the region. It is the kingdom of the Beaujolais appellation.

For a relaxing break in a fully renovated 15th century chateau, try the château de Bagnols, a great starting point for exploring Pierres Dorées country and its wines.

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Get together with à Bistrots Beaujolais Chef : L’échanson

rencontre-avec-bistrot-beaujolais-echnason

A few words about the restaurant

In Clochemerle (or Vaux-en-Beaujolais…) people come to discover the site that inspired Gabriel Chevalier as well as Romain and Delphine Barthe’s wonderful gourmet restaurant L’auberge de Clochemerle. As in every village, things tend to change, and one day the couple heard the former town hall was looking for a new purpose in life! The restaurant owners took the challenge and opened L’Echanson, putting Baptiste Fernandez in charge.

The only obligation mandated by the Town Hall: preserve regional native Allain Renoux’s frescoes that adorn the former wedding hall. Delphine and Romain also decided to keep the period tiles intact, whose design inspired their logo.

The idea: a chic, friendly restaurant with a focus on the village, local products and a wine list solely devoted to Beaujolais wines – all appellations – and different growers every month.

© Anne D photographie

A words about you

Baptiste is a local, like the produce. “Together, Romain and I serve dishes made with excellent local produce, in a laid-back, generous and welcoming atmosphere. Here, friendliness is in the dish as well as in the atmosphere. It isn’t uncommon to see tables of 2 that become tables of 4, 6 or 10 as the meal and conversations with nearby tables progress. Our signature dish ‘La Potence’ is one of the best examples of that.”

An anecdote (or two) from behind the scenes

“At the end of a midday meal, a couple of tourists were undecided about what to taste next. They still had a little room for…. a savoury surprise! Yes, a surprise, since even though the cheese platter was wonderfully stocked with local produce, the tourists felt like something else. A challenge that Baptiste was delighted to take up. He whipped up some faisselle cheese seasoned with mustard powder, Sichuan pepper and chopped flat-leaf parsley… Surprised and enchanted, those two tourists returned the very same evening. For that matter, they come back regularly every time they’re in the area.”

Anne D photographie

A signature dish 

“Without a doubt ‘La Potence’ is our convivial signature dish that brings out the friendliness and originality in the tradition. The beef from the Saint-Etienne-des-Oullières butcher shop is flambéed with Beaujolais marc.

And our signature dessert is the ‘Dariole au chocolat’, a chocolate fondant that Romain learned how to make when he was working at Trois Gros.”

A beaujolais wine-and-food pairing

“An andouillette sausage from Braillon’s (Villefranche-sur-Saône), made exclusively of calf’s ruffle and accompanied by young vegetables with a Moulin-à-vent wine from David Large’s Lieu-dit Rochenoire; an easy-to-drink, fruity cuvée that’s not too tannic to enhance the grilled taste of the andouillette.”

One of your “favourite” winegrowers and why

“One? No, several. Every month a different one. In July, it’ll be David Large. He, the chef and I are all practically the same age. He’s a good friend who shares my values. As neighbours, since David lives a stone’s throw from the restaurant, we like to talk about Beaujolais wines, his vintages and reinventing the world… but I’m also really fond of the vintages produced by Yannick de Vermont (Château de Vaux) and Jean Luc Longère (Domaine Longère), to name but a few.”

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Get together with a Bistrot Beaujolais chef : Le substrat

A few words about your restaurant

From his restaurant Substrat located in Lyon’s Croix Rousse neighbourhood to Food Traboule and including his So6 La Saucissonerie, Hubert Vergoin showcases all his creativity, passion and touch of madness. As a sommelier, he personally knows all the winemakers on his wine list. As a chef, he enhances the freshly-picked produce to serve up plates full of colours, flavours and surprises. At Substrat – his neo-bistro housed in a former artisan’s workshop in Croix Rousse – the charm works: the venue, the dishes created from scratch and the wines, very often from local growers, enchant diners. At So6 La Saucissonerie, typical brasserie cuisine is what makes the place tick. Two venues, two atmospheres, but the spirit of sharing is ever-present, with a focus on Beaujolais wines. Hubert Vergoin is one of our award winners of the year!

A few words about you

“After training as a sommelier, I began my career at Chez Monsieur Paul at L’Auberge, as an apprentice. Next I worked as a sommelier in a wine shop and wine bar in the south and in Lyon until 2008. After that, I opened my first business, a cave à manger sandwich shop in Tassin-la-Demi-Lune and the restaurant Substrat on Thursday, November 21, 2013 just in time for the Beaujolais Nouveau festivities!”

A few words about your restaurant

“Substrat is in line with the neo-bistro style, with easy-drinking wines and freshly-picked produce… inspirational cuisine based on herbs, mushrooms and garden veggies.”

An anecdote (or two) from behind the scenes

“When the restaurant first opened, the desserts weren’t quite up to par. We worked hard to make them stand out, especially the ice cream that I love: I wanted to make chef desserts with homemade ice cream in original flavours, for example: a slice of gingerbread topped with cep ice cream, olive oil ice cream served on a white chocolate biscuit, or fresh strawberries served with sheep’s cheese ice cream… One day, a customer asked if we could ‘just’ serve him a scoop of vanilla ice cream for dessert. I think he thought we had a freezer full of ice cream flavours. We even offered to serve him a bit of whipped cream with it, before politely telling him no way!”

A beaujolais wine-and-food pairing

“A surprising food and wine pairing is with oysters and a Fleurie wine, for example!” 

Why are you so attached to the Beaujolais region?

“Gamay runs in my blood! It’s like the Rhône and Saône rivers… I like the very Gallic side of this region and also its genuine organic-nature avant-garde approach.” (an avant-gardist approach, a new generation)

One of your “favourite” winegrowers and why

“Julien Sunier. He’s a friend. We started out together in 2008.”

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Get together with a Bistrot Beaujolais chef : Le Mordant

le-mordant-lucas-blachy-bistrot-beaujolais

The 10th arrondissement of Paris is where the Le Mordant (which translates loosely as ‘The Bite’) ‘bares its fangs’ and serves refined, attractive dishes. All the produce is meticulously selected at the producers. We’re here to provide a colourful, appealing cuisine with a spirit of sharing. At times traditional and at times exotic, the dishes get inspiration from countless places, taking diners far from their day-to-day routine as they eat.

a few words about you

Lucas Blanchy has been in the restaurant business for nearly 20 years. After spending time as a chef in restaurants like Georges V or Jules Vernes, Le Mordant is his first creation! Besides being an excellent chef, he is also an outstanding sommelier, fond of the terroir and fresh produce. With a leaning towards organic and biodynamics, he has developed a soft spot for natural wines. But for him, what’s important is “listening to the winegrower who is a purveyor of emotions, the wines are chosen to faithfully transpose what the grower has done with respect.”

a few words about the restaurant

“Before the restaurant was created here, there was a supermarket! So we had to rethink the decoration, now designed by the architect Lucie Lepage-Depreux. At Le Mordant, we strongly believe in recurring dishes, tow which the team’s ideas and cravings are added. The heart of the cuisine is to work with fresh, traceable produce. Traditional recipes are reinvented with a twist and daring seasonings, to bring the classics back into fashion. Like the standard ‘egg and mayo’ now infused with black tea and its wasabi mayonnaise.”

A signature dish

“The ‘avocado and beef tataki with a zest of lemon’. The chunks of tender beef are marinated in soy sauce, with kefir lemon and other secret ingredients. They are grilled then marinated again for 24 hours.”

A Beaujolais wine-and-food pairing

ribs-daddy-rogger-accord-met-vin-beaujolais

“Daddy Roger pork ribs – a recipe that’s a tribute to a friend’s American father. They pair perfectly with the Juliénas wine from the Domaine des Marrans. It’s an easy-to-drink wine that goes very well with the smoky taste in the barbecue sauce and the rather fatty piece of meat.”

One of your “favourite” winegrowers and why

“Jean-Claude Lapalu, who I’ve known since my training as a sommelier. I was taken with his ‘Eau Forte’ cuvée! He makes wines that provide lots of emotion and he’s amazing. He tells the story of the terroir and the Beaujolais through his wines.”

Why are you so attached to the Beaujolais region?

“I discovered the region when I was training to become a sommelier. I loved the Gamay grape variety and fell in love with the terroir and the diversity between the different appellations. They each have their unique typicities and every tasting has a nice surprise in store. I have my heart set on introducing others to the wines of this region. So it makes sense to be listed as a Bistrot Beaujolais and it lets me fly the Beaujolais flag high.”

An anecdote (or two) from behind the scenes

“Our customers are fairly traditional in their approach to wines so I like guiding them towards appellations that aren’t quite as well known, getting them to do blind tastings to overcome their biases, and introducing them to the real Beaujolais.

One day I recommended a Beaujolais to a customer; but he wouldn’t have any of it. As a risk-taker I decided to bring him and his guests wine by the glass. The whole table agreed: they loved it! Then I told them what I had served them… a Beaujolais! They were surprised but keep coming back for more now.

I also love keeping Jean-Claude Lapalu’s Beaujolais Nouveau on hand, and serving it year round to my customers, to surprise them.”